Centreboard Case head ledges (end posts) glued in and screwed. Case clamped flat with packing blocks to hold shape while head ledges cure.

Close-up of head ledge. Note slight projection at bottom end to fit into cut-out in bottom panel of boat.

Another view of the centreboard case clamped flat while the head ledges cure.

Attaching gunwales with temporary screws.

Gunwales attached dry before gluing

View from forrard

Fairing deck beams with modified block plane

Doing same to the transom

Alternative method of planing bevel on top of deckbeams and transom

How to check the bevels

Kingplank installed

Outboard mounting pad dry-fitted, along with vertical cleats to carry outboard well sides

Dry-fitting outboard well sides

Outboard well sides in position

Measuring bevels for aft deck beams

Dry fitting aft deck beams

Deck beam in position prior to gluing

Aft deck beams and outboard well sides dry fitted

General view of aft deck and outboard well arrangement

Marking side deck hanging knees from the full-size pattern

Marking side deck hanging knee from full-size pattern supplied with plans

Checking line of side deck using flexible batten. Temporary cross-braces still in position

Checking line of side deck using flexible batten. Temporary cross-braces still in position

Tip of soldering iron filed flat. Used to heat temporary screws for removal from epoxy.

Using soldering iron to heat screws. This helps break bonds with epoxy, and prevents breakage of screws

Gluing side-deck knee to hull, using temporary cross brace for support

Cross-section of a properly filleted joint. Note generous fillet and the layer of glass at the surface

Blocks glued to the for'd and aft bulkheads carry the ends of the side-deck carlings

Dry-fitting side deck carlings. Many clamps required due to the amount of bend and edge-set necessary. One of the more difficult parts of the assembly

Side-deck carlings being held by screws, and one set of clamps prior to gluing. Note that temporary cross braces are still in position.

Side-deck carlings dry-fitted to end blocks

Cut-out in temporary cross-brace to allow side-deck carling to run through without obstruction. Cross-braces will be removed after carlings are glued

Centreboard case ready for installation

Cutting mortises in bottom of hull to take head ledges (end posts) of CB case. Full slot will be cut after assembly with boat upside down.

Using pneumatic saw with flexible blade to cut mortise right up against midships frame. A hand saw or hacksaw blade will do as well.

Cutting away epoxy from midships frame to fit centreboard case. This could have been left clear during the taping operation, but I forgot!

Sanding cured epoxy to ensure good bond when gluing in centreboard case

Good view of side deck carlings with clamps removed. Boat ready for centreboard case

Notch cut in aft, top corner of cb case to allow for the cross piece glued to for'd face of midships frame

Bottom edge of centreboard case showing end posts protruding a bit to fit into mortises in bottom of boat. Not essential, but handy for location and s

Centreboard case dry-fitted. Note semi-bulkhead at for'd end

Centreboard case dry-fitted

Centreboard case dry-fitted. Note aft deck beams and the outboard well structure

This is what the brace on the for'd end of the centreboard case is useful for.

Applying thickened epoxy to the bedlogs of the centreboard case. These were primed with un-thickened epoxy first.

All gluing surfaces are primed with un-thickened epoxy prior to application of thickened mix.

Forward semi-bulkhead being fitted with epoxy and silicon bronze screws

Placing case in position, being careful not to wipe off any epoxy mix

Fitting centreboard case

In position

Positioning screws being driven through midships frame

All permanent screws are silicon bronze, and set in epoxy

Plenty of epoxy squeeze-out is essential. It can be used for filletting, and is not wasted

Filletting bedlogs

Filletting semi-bulkhead

Dry-fitting deck - roughly cut, well oversize

Dry-fitting deck _ roughly cut, well oversize

Using a flush-trim router bit to trim deck edges

Dry-fitted deck

Dry-fitted deck showing outboard well.Main thwart will fit over centreboard caseforrard of midships frame

Dry-fitted deck

At least three coats of high-quality two-part epoxy Primer/Undercoat applied to the internal surfaces of the buoyancy tanks.

Support structure for stern sheets (aft seat) from light 19mm x 32mm (3/4" x 1-1/4")

Support structure for main thwart from light 19mm x 32mm (3/4" x 1-1/4")

19mm x 19mm (3/4" x 3/4") half-frame distributes seating loads into the gunwale and chine

Holes in side-deck knees to act as tie-down points - idea courtesy of Paul Hernes

Seating dry-fitted

Plenty of emergency buoyancy in aft sections

Sanding fairing compound on glass tapes

Sanding fairing compound on glass tapes

Mast Partner and Mast Step glued into position

Mast Partner glued to main bulkhead deck beam, and thru-fastened using large silicon bronze screws

Mast step is glued to bulkhead and bottom. Note drainage hole.

Another view of Mast Partner.

utting out centreboard slot in bottom panel

Using flush-trim router bit to trim edge of slot to coincide with the internal faces of the case

Cutting keel batten to the correct width and taper

Trial fitting of external keel batten

A random orbit sander is a good tool for preparing the hull surface for the glassing

Faired hull ready for epoxy work

Fine entry angle to keep down spray!

Panel edges and cable-tie holes filled with epoxy putty