Vacuuming thoroughly prior to application of glass cloth

Pay particular atention to the knuckle at each chine and check for sharp edges and unfilled seams

Using a detail sander to clean up some improperly sanded sections which were discovered after the initial vacuuming

200gsm/6oz woven glass layed loosely over hull. Be careful not to snag the cloth on sharp edges or splinters.

Using a dry brush to smooth the glass cloth onto the hull

Join glass along centreline and tape together using masking tape. This joint will be hidden under the external keel batten at a later date

Trimming excess glass cloth with sharp scissors

These sturdy shears have seen plenty of use, but are re-sharpened using a waterstone.

Glass cloth smoothed and ready for application of epoxy

I elected to wet-out one side at a time, so I placed lead weights on the remaining side to hold it in position and peeled it back.

I elected to wet-out one side at a time, so I placed lead weights on the remaining side to hold it in position and peeled it back.

Pouring on epoxy, and doing the initial spreading with a squeegee - I use a rectangle of 1/16 balsawood

Work from the centre of each panel and move out towards the edges

Delicate areas such as the cut edges were done using a disposable bristle brush

Excess epoxy being removed from the cloth with a squeegee to prevent the cloth "floating" in puddles

After the glass cloth is fully wet-ut, I go over it with a dry foam roller to remove excess

The first coat finished. Once if cures enough to stick (say two hours) apply a further two coats to fill the weave of the cloth

The first coat finished. Once if cures enough to stick (say two hours) apply a further two coats to fill the weave of the cloth

The first coat finished. Once if cures enough to stick (say two hours) apply a further two coats to fill the weave of the cloth

A First Mate being built by Wayne Jorgensen and a friend for a Sea Scout Group. This one has alloy spars.

A First Mate being built by Wayne Jorgensen and a friend for a Sea Scout Group. This one has alloy spars.

A First Mate being built by Wayne Jorgensen and a friend for a Sea Scout Group. This one has alloy spars.

Dry-fitting keel batten. Care is required to ensure it is on the centreline of the boat

I held mine in place with silicon bronze screws driven through and into the bulkheads and centreboard case

Centreboard slot cut out only enough to allow a router bit in at a later date. Leave a bit in the middle to hold the sides parallel to each other

Wetting-out gluing surfaces with un-thickened epoxy. Note pencil marks from the dry fitting.

Applying thickened epoxy to keel

Applying thickened epoxy to the gluing surface on the boat. Use plenty!

Place batten in position. I used an awl to help locate the screw holes

Where the screws are to be permanent, put epoxy in the holes and on the screws

Drive screws, using enough to get a good squeeze-out. I used temporary screws in-between bulkhead locations, and removed them when the epoxy cured

Clean-up epoxy squeeze-out, and leave a fillet

I made the skeg from two laminations of 12mm/1/2" ply. Glue-up on a straight and flat surface

Skeg after epoxy has cured

Removing cured epoxy from the surface which will be attached to the boat, using a spoke-shave.

Rounding over the edges of the keel batten with a router. This should be done before attaching the skeg, as it would get in the way

Prime both surfaces with un-thickened epoxy, and then apply a good amount of thickened epoxy adhesive

Use weights, and/or temporary screws to hold in position, being careful to follow centreline. I clamped a straight-edge to keep skeg perpendicular

The curve in the bottom and the edge of the skeg is what gives the joint strength against side loads. I do not use permanent fastenings.