Designs

Our most popular design so far is Phoenix III, a 15ft 1-1/2in x 4ft 9in x 6in Beachcruiser which carries 104sq.ft. of sail in an un-stayed Sprit-Sloop rig.

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Plans package includes

 

Price $155.00 Australian plus postage

Overseas customers may prefer to purchase from Duckworks  www.duckworksbbs.com/plans.htm 

Price from Duckworks U.S.$155.00 plus $21 airmail postage

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Flint is a 14ft 7-1/2in x 4ft Utility Boat for oars and small outboard.    See Photo Gallery 

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Alec Morgan's Flint Journey Blog

Plans available from Ross Lillistone. Price $65.00 Australian

Overseas customers may prefer to purchase from Duckworks  www.duckworksbbs.com/plans.htm 

Price from Duckworks U.S.$60.00 plus $12 airmail postage

 

 

 

 

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First Mate, a 15 ft Beachcruiser for sail, oars, and small outboard motor

First Mate has the same rigs and layout as the very successful Phoenix III, but uses an easy-to-build

stitch-and-glue hull. Primary dimensions are 15ft x 5ft x 5-1/2inches.  See Photos Here

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Price $155.00 Australian plus postage

Overseas customers may prefer to purchase from Duckworks  www.duckworksbbs.com/plans.htm 

Price from Duckworks U.S.$155.00 plus $21 airmail postage

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Alby - a 7ft 7-1/2in x 4ft 2-1/2in Praam Dinghy with built-in buoyancy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  Download Free pdf Study Plans

Plans available from Ross Lillistone

Price $60.00 Australian, plus postage

Overseas customers may prefer to purchase from Duckworks  www.duckworksbbs.com/plans.htm 

Price from Duckworks U.S.$60.00 plus $12 airmail postage

 

 

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Water Rat - a handy paddle ski with storage.

 

 

The plans come as four sheets giving the details required to build both the 9ft and the 10.8ft versions, and are available in either metric or imperial measure (please specify your preference). They come in printed form (4 sheets of A3-sized paper) or as a pdf file sent via a secure link for you to print out. The scale will only be correct if printed on A3, but that is not important as all of the measurements are listed on the plans, so you could even work from 'Letter' sized prints. The plans have plenty of detail, but the instructions are limited to what I have printed on the plans sheets themselves - this is a very simple boat, and does not require the instruction books which I send out with my more serious plans. If you aren't familiar with stitch-and-glue, have a look at the pages of thumb-nailed photos on my website under 'Flint Photos' and 'First Mate Photos'.

Cost is AUD$25 for the printed edition including airmail postage, or AUD$18 for the pdf copy, which is delivered almost instantly. The most convenient method of payment is by Paypal using this email address as the payee. For printed copies, please send postal address.

Basic plywood requirements are two sheets of 6mm/1/4" marine plywood. The boat can be built from 4mm/5/32" ply, but additional bottom panel stiffening is recommended.

Three Brothers

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An efficient powerboat for work and play - LOA 26' 2"  Beam 6' 8-1/2"  Draft 10"

 

Some time ago I received a letter from my long-time boating and bush-exploration friend, Ian Hamilton. Ian seemed to have been going through something of an extended mid-life crisis, but never having been one to comply with convention, his mid-life crisis-driven ideas were not much different from his normal fantasies, and I didn’t pay him too much attention.

Ian’s latest idea was for us (not that I was consulted about the ‘us’ bit) to wander over to Western Australia to spend a few months exploring the Kimberleys. Australia is a very big place – as big as the U.S. – and most of it is made up of desert. In fact, Australia is the driest inhabited continent on the face of the globe: the Kimberleys are as far from where we live as it is possible to get in this country - about 3,500 kilometers or 2100 miles in a straight line, and all across uninhabited desert…

Now, I am interested in the Kimberleys - the fantastic terrestrial and nautical scenery - but I didn’t ever believe that the trip would come off. With that in mind, I let Ian babble on about boats and equipment in the hope that it would all go away. However, he has remained persistent, and for a long time he pushed to have a boat designed which would have the load-carrying ability and the range, to operate in that remote part of the world.

Ian had been using a Phil Bolger-designed Sharpshooter for quite a few years, and I told him she was the boat for the job – 23 feet long by 5 ft 7ins in breadth with a flat bottom, she had proved to be unexpectedly seaworthy and burdensome. The trouble was that Ian wanted just a few more things – like room, comfort, freedom from pounding – and he wanted me to design the boat.

Some time ago I did some preliminary sketching of possible layouts, drawing on experience I had gained with some much smaller rowboats of similar form. My feeling was that the hull-form (similar to William Hand’s designs in some respects) had the potential to make a decent semi-displacement cruiser which would operate well with small power plants.

Nothing much happened after that for a long time, due to health and workload issues, and the proposal lay dormant as a profile sketch.

Here is a copy of the text of one of Ian’s letters, just to show what he had in mind: -

Dear Rossco.

I’ve been thinking more about my proposed Kimberley trip & about extended bouts of local & backcountry cruising.

Advantages of Sharpshooter:

·         Floats on wet sand                                         

·         Is safe in rough water, with ultimate lifeboat capability

·         Is fast enough

·         Can carry a big load

·         Is easy to trailer, launch & retrieve, despite its length

·         Is cheap to own & run

·         She already exists!

 

But:                  She’s no joy to windward in a chop & not really comfortable to “live” on for extended periods of foul or very hot weather.

 

So:                   Could I drop a load of wishes on you to be considered in a new design which keeps most of the virtues but adds comfort in terms of live-on ability and use in nasty conditions?  The compromises I would tolerate? She will obviously be bigger and cost substantially more (while still being smaller, simpler & cheaper than most would consider for the task!)

 

      This boat should be considered a very basic, but comfortable cruiser for two & a dayboat  for three or four adults and a bunch of kids.        

The accommodation can be ‘cozy’. I’d like to string it out lengthwise to produce a long, narrow, low and light boat that is easy to tow and to power. Sharpshooter runs at 9 or so knots in the rough and about 19knots flat out, fully loaded, on 30hp. This is fine, so if the expanded boat could do that with maybe 50hp I would be very happy. The major difference being …. I want to be able to run smoothly in a chop. (You know the sort of water I’m talking about, and 8 to 10 knots in those conditions would be fantastic if sustainable.) 

Accommodation:   

 Main cabin:    

·         2 berths.   

·         galley…  600 x 600 boxes p&s would do… just for a camp stove & bench top… sitting headroom at the galley end… no running water

·         cabin / galley bulkheaded off from the fuel

·         lockable

 

Doghouse:     

·         soft top or hard…maybe 2000 aft from the bulkhead.  I wouldn’t be thinking to load up the roof on a narrow boat. (At most a small solar panel)

·         Standing room at the helm (fold down seat)

·         Side seat under the shelter (convert to berth, stowage beneath)

·         This area should be open to provide cool shade and enclosable with “clears” in monsoonal rain

·         In a gesture toward true luxury, I’d probably build a very light, open-topped,  removable enclosure for a porta loo & weed sprayer shower, behind the helm.

Cockpit:          

·         Good size for fishing  /  room to lay a couple of camp mattresses for kids /room for a pair of camp chairs & a folding table

·         Seaworthy outboard well and motor mounted on the transom, with room for an auxiliary in one of those nice setups like Phoenix 3.

Construction: 

·         Whether I build it or palm it off, construction should be robust, simple, quick and plywood, with a view to maintenance and repair in isolated  locations.

She needs to be able to look after herself in locations with big tides (7m at Broadsound!) hard south-easterlies , unfriendly wildlife, lots of rocks,  shoals & reefs and to be trailered very long distances routinely.

Should be pretty easy, really!

Ian

 Jumping to now –

Ian rang me a couple of months ago to say that he had seen the advertisement for the WoodenBoat/Professional Boatbuilder Design Competition 2 , and said that he thought that something like the boat we had been discussing would fit the design prescription perfectly. So, I started burning the midnight and early morning oil in an attempt to get a design on paper, and to do the required calculations to determine whether such a boat could meet the criteria specified in the competition rules.

Two-and-a-bit months down the track, and I have a buildable design on paper, with two different wheelhouse layouts, and a completed weight analysis. The conservative weight calculations and the comparative data from the hull drawings have allowed me to make some firm predictions regarding speed, fuel consumption, and load-carrying ability.

In broad terms, the character of the design is as follows: -

·        Long and narrow with a very fine entry to promote fuel efficiency and smooth running in a short, steep chop;

·        Light-weight and simple;

·        Hull-form optimised for efficient operation in the semi-displacement speed-range;

·        Trailerable.

My performance predictions with 288kg (634lbs) passenger weight and 85kg (187lbs) for engine and fuel are as follows: -

·        Assume displacement of 820kg (1804 lbs)

·        Salt water

·        LOA 26ft 2ins      LWL 22.6 ft

·        Power to achieve 10kts                                                            -           13.9hp

·        Power to achieve optimum SL ratio 2.2                                -           15.6hp

·        Speed with 30hp (Crouch’s Planing Speed Formula)                 -           19.3kts

·        Speed with 40hp (Crouch’s Planing Speed Formula)                 -           22.3kts

·        Speed with 50hp (Crouch’s Planing Speed Formula)                 -           25kts

My choice of motor would be either:

·        18hp four-cycle outboard, giving a full-throttle fuel consumption of approximately 5.7 lt/hr (1.5 gal/hr);

·        30hp four-cycle outboard, giving a full-throttle fuel consumption of approximately 9.8 lt/hr (2.6 gal/hr);

·        30hp two-cycle outboard, giving a full-throttle fuel consumption of approximately 13.0 lt/hr ( 3.4 gal/hr), but with a weight and cost advantage.

Other options include an inboard diesel of between 18 and 22hp, or the Subaru automotive conversion as described in WoodenBoat Magazine #134 and #135. The flat cockpit space would be compromised, but the shape and proportions of the boat make an inboard installation very practical.

Below is a list of some of the elements/intentions/assumptions which under-pin the design: -

·        Scantlings have been determined by reference to the book of scantling rules titled, “The Elements of Boat Strength’ by Dave Gerr. Designed to comply with USLC – Section 5 Sub-section M wherever possible, however it is the responsibility of the builder to ensure compliance with relevant regulations;

·        Plywood construction, using the “stitch-and-glue” method. This allows for fast hull and superstructure assembly without the need for any strongback, mold, or dedicated jig. Quick and economical work for a professional or knowledgeable amateur builder;

·        Expanded panel shapes to allow simple marking directly onto the hull panels without the need for patterns or full-sized lofting in a conventional sense. The shapes lend themselves to CNC cutting if desired;

·        All bulkheads, frames, and transom are dimensioned to be marked directly onto components without the need for a full-sized lofting;

·        The majority of the transverse and longitudinal components do not require bevelling due to the gap-filling characteristics of high-quality marine-grade epoxy and the use of double-bias e-glass reinforcements. Components have been dimensioned with this in mind;

·        22"-wide bunks in cuddy cabin, with good sitting headroom, and storage spaces under and forward of the bunks;

·        7’ 4” x 5’ 11” self-draining cockpit floor, with provision for shelter from sun and rain. Suitable for camping with as many as wish to squeeze together;

·        6’ 3” standing headroom in wheelhouse (6’5” in the centre);

·        Cabin sides extend to gunwales in order to maximize volume in cabin, and more importantly, provide a measure of reserve buoyancy in a knockdown;

·        Substantial tumblehome in the superstructure to reduce damage when coming alongside wharves etc., to reduce weight and windage aloft, and to ensure that persons standing in the wheelhouse (i.e. high human centres-of-gravity) are pushed towards the centreline. There is a full 4’ + at shoulder height, which is plenty for two adults;

·        Underfloor stowage available, particularly under the cockpit;

·        Built-in foam buoyancy forward and aft;

·        Station #1 is designed to meet the scantling requirements of a collision bulkhead;

·        Foredeck anchor locker which is self-draining;

·        Cabin roof (deckhead) structure designed to comply the requirements for harsh usage, with closely-spaced longitudinal deck beams – but they only intrude ¾” into the cabin space;

·        Hull shape optimised for operation in the semi-displacement speed range for reasons of economy, range, and some sort of harmony with the environment;

      Plans for Three Brothers come on 20 sheets of A3 drawings, in your choice of metric or imperial measurements. This is a substantial project, and is recommended for builders with some experience. Plans and basic instructions for $210.00 Australian, plus postage.

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 Periwinkle - A seventeen foot boat for Sail, Oar, and Small Outboard

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A few years ago my wife asked me to name my favourite boat. If I had thought about the question at all, it would have been almost impossible to answer, because there are so many designs which have appealed to me over the years. But on that occasion I gave her an answer based on gut-reaction, and that answer was, “Hesper”.

Hesper Lines (American Small Sailing Craft – Howard I. Chapelle)

Hesper (the evening star) was a Boston pilot schooner designed by the great Dennison J. Lawlor, and built in 1884. She was 102 feet over all, and had a beam of 23 feet, and in the words of the scholar Howard I. Chapelle her, “..speed and weatherliness were phenomenal.”. I’ve always been attracted to the looks of the schooner rig, but what drew me so strongly to Hesper was her hull shape - the extreme fineness of her entry and a sharp, hollow bow. To top it all off, she had a plumb (upright) stem which gives an impression of great power. I guess that when I specified Hesper as being my favourite, I was really just saying that I like the lines of many of the pilot schooners and Gloucester fishing schooners, and Hesper is a prime representative.

I haven’t worked out whether people like boats of a certain shape because of having studied lines on paper and in the flesh, or whether there is something deep within us which is drawn to particular shapes. What I do know is that while we need to learn from others, it is critical for each of us to trust our own sense of proportion and judgment when choosing a design. In other words, don’t think too deeply when making a design choice – follow your instincts.

Relying on instinct became very important to me when I was approached by John Shrapnel in late 2007. John had drawn up a short-list of designs for his next boat, and kindly invited me to put up a competing proposal of my own. It was an intimidating offer, because the other boats on John’s list were well-known designs from established designers. Relatively speaking, my work was an unknown quantity.

John had been spending a lot of time sailing Paul Hernes’ boat – in fact, Paul was having difficulty prying John’s hand off the tiller long enough to have a go himself! That boat was the first to be built to my Phoenix III design, and Paul had put a lot of work into building and testing her. When John gave me the opportunity to submit a competing proposal for his list of designs he said three things: -

  • she should look similar to Phoenix III;
  • she should be two feet longer than Phoenix III, so that he could always beat Paul; and
  • she should have a Cat-Ketch rig.  

The first two requirements were easy enough to meet, but the last one caused me some concern. John is a speed-demon, and I knew that he wanted to go fast – but I also knew that the Cat-Ketch (or Periauger) rig is not the fastest system for getting a boat up to windward. I began to have visions of Paul’s smiling face as he crossed the line in front of this imaginary big boat. However, I decided to give it a go just to see what eventuated on paper (I have since designed a gaff-headed cat rig and small flying jib – details included with the plans).

Now, when designing a small boat, internal layout is very important to the success of the resulting craft. I guess that is the case in big boats as well, but dinghies have such limited volume to start off with, that every dimension must be carefully considered in relation to the human form. When I started the initial sketching of a cat-ketch rig for the new boat, it became apparent that the location of the masts would allow a particularly good seating arrangement for a cruising dinghy, and more importantly, would make possible a really large dry-stowage/buoyancy compartment. I was beginning to warm to the two-masted rig.

However, I was still concerned about making the boat fast enough for exciting sailing. The influence of Hesper and her sisters is never far below the surface of my pool of thoughts, and in this new design I was able to bring at least some of those visions to life on paper. The principal dimensions I had chosen were 17ft x 5ft (5.182m x 1.524m) giving a length-to-breadth ratio of 3.4:1 overall and nearly 3.8:1 using waterline measurements. This is fairly lean for a sailing dinghy, and allowed me to draw a bow with hollow waterlines and a fine entry angle. The centre-of-buoyancy was well aft at 58% of the overall length, but that suited my purpose as I knew that people tend to sit too far back in a dinghy.

The numbers and the shape indicated a fast hull for a cruising dinghy, and to ensure there would be enough horsepower, I put 155 sq.ft.(14.5sq.m)of sail into the rig. Both of the sails are balanced lugs, because of that rig’s simplicity, good reefing properties, and short masts. Being spread out along the length of the boat, this rig has a low combined centre-of-area, meaning that for a given sail area, the heeling moment is minimised – a happy situation for this slippery vessel. The resulting numbers are as follows: -

  • Displacement/Length Ratio - 92  (the range is 50 to 380+, with 92 being in the middle of the 50 – 120 ‘Ultralight’ range). This factor is a measure of distribution of volume over a longer waterline;
  • Sail Area/Displacement Ratio - 25  This figure was obtained by using the full area of the main plus half the area of the mizzen (Standard procedure with ketches) and puts her in ‘Very-High-Performance-Racers’ category. This figure is really a measure of her strong-wind performance potential. For light winds we need to look at Sail Area/Wetted Surface Ratio.
  • Sail Area/Wetted Surface Ratio - 2.8 (using only half of the mizzen area in the calculation) Anything greater than 2.6 indicates a very high performance potential in ghosting conditions.

Periwinkle (as the design was now christened) was given the go-ahead by the very brave John, and was built using the glued-lapstrake (clinker) method. In order to keep building hours down, I designed her with only five planks of plywood per side, and included frames and bulkheads in the mold set-up. This saved time and materials when building the mold. Planking was from 9mm marine ply, and the deck was made of 6mm marine ply. Natural timber components like the keel, stem, floor timbers, gunwales and bed logs were made from Hoop Pine, Oregon, Victorian Mountain Ash, and Silver Quandong. All structural gluing was carried out using West System® Brand epoxy products, and metal fastenings were silicon bronze. Coatings came from Norglass in Sydney.

Since launching day in late November 2008, Periwinkle has been sailed frequently by John Shrapnel and many friends. Minor rig tweaking continues, but I’m relieved to say that she has proved to be everything that we hoped. Being light and lean, she benefits from early reefing. In the event of a capsize, the boat sits reliably head-to-wind with the mizzen sheeted in firmly, while a crew member bails from the aft thwart (seat). The big centreline aft-deck hatch remains above the capsized waterline so that the compartment is protected from flooding even if the hatch cover is left off.

Included in the design is a third mast location which allows the boat to be sailed with only a single sail if conditions are tough and the crew light. This mast location has been tested - at various times using the main sail, and at others the mizzen. In either case, the helm balance is good and the boat is easily driven.

I know that in this life I will never set eyes on Hesper, but the images I have of Periwinkle cutting through a chop give me a hint of how she and her sisters must have appeared so many years ago.

You can see plenty more photos of Periwinkle by going to my website www.baysidewoodenboats.com.au and clicking on the three buttons labelled “Periwinkle Photos” (1, 2, and 3). Each of the three pages contains sixty or so expandable thumbnails of building and sailing.

Plans package includes: -

  • 32 sheets of A3 drawings
  • 47 page illustrated instruction manual.
  • Price $175.00 plus postage